THE SUMMIT OF BORNEO

Although Mt. Kinabalu is the highest mountain in Southeast Asia, almost anyone can climb it as no experience or special abilities are required.

This 4,101-meter (13,455 ft.) landmark is in fact one of the easiest mountains to climb. Neither is it wanting in physical challenges to satisfy anyone's craving for rugged adventure. Nature lovers of various persuasions will find something and more in this paradise, home of one of the world's most unique ecological systems.

It doesn't take a lot to scale the summit of Borneo. Climbers are often advised to travel light. Cabins and huts at the mountain make it unnecessary to bring camping provisions. But since you are venturing into a rainforest and climbing a mountain, make sure your wardrobe and gear will protect you against the sun, the rain and the cold winds.

Make your reservations at least a week in advance in Kota Kinabalu, the capital of the Malaysian state of Sabah. Accommodation at the Kinabalu Park may be fully booked on school and public holidays and on weekends. This park is some 80 km. and a two-hour ride from KK. It is amply equipped with tourist facilities such as chalets, cabins and hostels. There are also visitors' amenities including restaurants, a souvenir shop, and sports facilities.

To acquaint guests with Kinabalu's rich flora and fauna, park guides conduct jungle treks around the different trails nearby. Over at the Visitors' Center, they feature exhibits and slide shows. Visitors are constantly reminded to help protect the national park and observe environment-friendly rules. For example, it is forbidden to harm or disturb any plant or animal; and to pick, cut, remove and collect plants, insects and other objects, dead or alive.

Park regulations require all climbers to register with the Park Warden's Headquarters, and to secure an insurance. Climbers who wish to reach the summit must be accompanied by a registered guide. Porters may also be hired here. Many, if not most, of the guides and porters are Kadazans or Dusuns, indigenous people who live in neighboring villages. It is not unusual to find old women porters lugging backpacks and equipment bigger than their wiry frames. The HQ has a storage room where climbers can leave their belongings. Do bring some plastic bags for your litter as it is also forbidden to leave or throw garbage in the mountain.

The ascent to the summit takes two days. On the first day, trekkers have to cover six kilometers to reach the Laban Rata Resthouse before dark. Estimated travel time is six hours. More, if one wishes to take a leisurely pace to "stop and smell the orchids." There are shelters and huts in every kilometer where weary climbers can rest, eat and drink. These shelters are equipped with toilets and watertanks. Climbers can also refill their water bottles at Carson's Falls, about 00 meters from the starting point.

The trek follows a jungle trail which meanders through four types of forest: from the misty cloud forest to the rocky alpine region. Here in the rainforest different kinds of mosses, ferns, vines and orchids grow just about everywhere. The sheer variety and density of plant life are overwhelming. Over 1,500 kinds of orchids have been documented in Mt. Kinabalu. Many bloom in October. Two of the world's rarest insect-eating plants are found here: the pitcher plant and rafflesia. Many colorful rhododendrons and other flowers found in the area are endemic, growing only in Mt. Kinabalu and nowhere else in the world.

Climbers are likely to encounter some of the mountain's little inhabitants, like the tree shrew, squirrel and Kinabalu rat. You'll have to strain your neck to catch a glimpse of the birds like warblers and blackeyes in the tree branches but they're virtually everywhere and they fill the forest with their songs and cries.

On weekends and holidays you're liable to meet several fellow climbers making their way up or down. Teenagers from Hong Kong mingle with yuppies from Singapore. Malaysians appear to enjoy traveling in family groups. Couples from Europe look decidedly romantic in matching get-ups from their hats to their shoes. Americans and Australians, it seems, prefer to travel alone or in two's, three's and four's. Not so the Japanense, Taiwanese and Korean senior citizens on group tours. There are just as many women as there are men. Climbers can be as young as 12 years old, or in the golden years of 60s. Interacting with such a colorful company comes as a pleasant surprise in the middle of a wildnerness. Making new friends, sharing food and exchanging pleasantries will surely add a multi-cultural dimension to your trek.

Upon reaching the Laban Rata Resthouse climbers can check into their rooms, admire the fantastic view of the sunset from the veranda, and have an early dinner at the dining area.

Accommodation in this dormitory costs about P275 per person per night. Each room has four bunks, a closet and a heater. Down the hall is the common toilet and shower stalls with water heater. Cheaper accommodations are available at the nearby mountain huts.

The climb resumes at dawn. Most people start out at three in the morning. For this reason, the kitchen serves breakfast as early as 2:00 a.m. In this near freezing temperature, you need to put on extra layers of clothing to keep warm. Ski masks, gloves and extra socks are essential. So is a reliable flashlight, one that can be worn around the head to help you find your way in the dark with both hands free.

The climb to the summit is a little over 2.5 km. The very steep mountain trail takes climbers past the craggy alpine forest to a bare rockface wall. From hereon the trail is replaced by thick nylon ropes laid out over the granite surface of the mountain. These ropes are specially useful for hoisting yourself up over near vertical slopes. The sparse vegetation in these parts are limited to shrubs and grasses growing on the crevices. Mind you, don't step on the harmless Kinabalu rat foraging for food.

At this altitude the different peaks of Mt. Kinabalu paint a fascinating skyline. The South Peak is the lowest and it resembles a chocolate kiss. Ugly Sister's Peak and Donkey Ears Peak may look formidable to everyone else but tempting to rock climbers. Then there's Low's Peak, the highest point.

The last kilometer before Low's Peak make up a gentle slope and therefore ought to be a stroll in the park. Far from it. Lack of oxygen at this altitude and gusts of freezing winds will test your determination.

Still, the successful climber will be sufficiently rewarded when he makes it to the pinnacle of Low's Peak at around 6:00 p.m., in time to catch the sunrise. On a clear day it is possible to see the rest of Sabah. If there are many climbers you may have to queue for that souvenir shot with the summer marker. This point commands a breathtaking view of Low's Gully, a chasm with a 912-meter drop from the summit plateau.

Climbers are advised to hurry down before 9:00 a.m. when the clouds start descending on the summit. Spend one more night up the mountain. Immerse yourself in the natural surroundings On your way down to civilization take time to look around you. The precious few rainforests in the world ought to be appreciated for their immeasurable worth.

For nine years now Mt. Kinabalu has been the site of the world's most intense and grueling mountain race. Every September, Malaysia Airlines holds the international climbathon. This year's 28-km route covered steep mountain trails, lush rainforest and the hills and dales of Kundasang valley up to the summit plateau. The winners for both male and female categories reached the finish line in under three hours.

With two direct flights weekly from Cebu to Kota Kinabalu, you're never too far from Borneo -- the best and nearest eco-tour destination outside this country.