SLOW FOOD TRIP
"An antidote to the fast life," says the CNN Travel Guide. "When McDonald's opened a restaurant in Carlo Petrini's favorite piazza in Rome, the Italian political activist-turned-food writer knew it was time to take to the culinary trenches.
"It was almost a joke: If there's fast food, then let's start something called `slow food' and give it an agenda," Petrini said.
"The manifesto for the movement was simple: conserving culinary traditions, fostering a sense of respect for flavor and tradition, and slowing down in a fast-moving world."
Today, this reaction to the proliferation of fast-foods is catching on. This backlash recognizes the irony of globalization which has resulted in the homogeneity of food like hamburgers, donuts, fried chicken, instant noodles, instant coffee and other items that are mass-produced with cookie-cutter uniformity designed to appeal to all tastes, all countries and cultures. Slow Food boasts of "40,000 members in 35 countries, a slick magazine published in five languages and one of the best food shows going." The five-day food show attracted thousands of visitors to Turin who sampled bread and pasta, chocolates and cheese, wine and mushrooms. As one observer noted, the movement is about connecting with the food artisans of the community.
We have our own food festivals in the Philippines, usually organized by folks in the hotel and restaurant business. But not as ambitious as the philosophy of Slow Food of a community celebrating life by keeping its culinary heritage and tradition alive.
Now, you might wonder, why am I talking about food? "Why you of all people -- you don't eat!" This was the reaction of Eileen when I was invited to write for this newspaper's food section. My other friends were not surprised though. I might be 15 lbs. underweight but boy, do I love to eat out.
Most Cebuanos are like that, too. Bisan ug inato lang gud. The elements of adventure and discovery are all there when we try out the local cuisine.
In the same way that there are people who get a kick out of being the first to watch the latest blockbuster films so they can tell their friends about it, cousin Kate and family enjoy discovering new dining outlets and dishes. Like this unassuming carenderia she and Jane have been raving about after they sampled its "to-die-for" grilled pork spare ribs. It's a recipe by a Swiss chef, and takes 45 minutes to cook -- and definitely worth the wait.
Culinary expert and Philippine Daily Inquirer food columnist Sandy Daza described it as exceptional -- "not sweet, not spicy ... just plain juicy" and noted the butter sauce laced with paprika that came with it. An order good for two costs P180, and you can phone in early if you want the dish hot and ready when you get there. The place is St. Martin's Batchoy House beside the subsidivion with the same name along A.S. Fortuna St. in Mandaue City. As the name suggests it's specialty is batchoy, but you should try their other dishes -- Jerry, sampled their utan bisaya, liked it, and helped himself to three servings.
Speaking of barbecued pork spare ribs, another group of friends swear on the one served at Gelo's in Banilad, across the Gaisano Country Mall. It's affordable -- for less than a hundred bucks it comes with a cup of rice and atchara. And they serve it to you hot, tender, and "sarap-to-the-bones" in ten quick minutes. Try their sizzling sisig, I heard it's good, too.
Do you know they serve hot meals at Harley's Entertainment along Osmena Blvd.? They do and Jack highly recommended -- nay he insisted on -- their pork spare ribs to me. Grilled with orange juice, wine, lea and garlic, and perrins: yep, it was lip-smacking good -- sweet, tangy and tart. But it was the funky chicken wings coated with honey, garlic, sambal, lemon juice and soy sauce mix that got me eating with my bare hands and licking my fingers. Waiting time is at least 30 minutes. The grilled pork costs P132, the chicken wings, P105. The joint also serves budget meals for as low as P55.
When it comes to chicken, again like most Cebuanos, I love it any way it's cooked. When it comes to chicken barbecue the popular outlets that come to mind are Junjun & Malou's, and Jo's Chicken Inato. And there's Hen's Grill Hut between San Miguel Corp. and Inmaculada in Mandaue City. Instead of pre-cooking it, they grill it fresh so the meat comes out succulent. Price ranges between P30 and P40.
Fancy real Italian cooking? I'm a pasta freak myself and wouldn't touch the fast-food variety if I can help it because they are usually soggy, overcooked, and devoid of that firm, rubbery texture. Check out La Bouna Forchetta near Bradford Church in Jones. Their pasta (al dente) with crabmeat (hot and spicy), pasta with lobster (with a touch of milk or cream sauce) are excellent. Marit especially loves their complimentary flat bread served fresh from the oven. Kate, Jane, and I enjoyed their seafood pizza with the extra flavor from the anchovies Jane requested.
Good food doesn't have to be expensive nor is it exclusively found in fancy surroundings. Many of the food outlets I mentioned are what Kate calls "greasy spoon joints" -- non-aircon, sand and gravel "flooring," and occasionally some flies to keep you company. Even so, don't be fooled by the modest architecture of some outlets because the prices will also shock you -- like when the bill hit P2,000 for a lunch for six people at a popular seafood carenderia at the Lapulapu shrine. They charged us P1,200 for the steamed crabs.
Yes, appearances can be deceiving -- but you can't go wrong if you heed your friends recommendations, right Kate?
November 12, 1998